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THE PULSE -
NEWS FROM THE TRENCHES…
A GRASS ROOTS ANALASIS OF FASHION SEWING TRENDS FROM PALMER/PLETSCH
INSTRUCTORS
A PUBLICITY STORY
Nancy Seifert
and Katrina Walker both are masterful at publicity. There are many ways
to get it. A store can have a newsletter like the one below for Pacific
Fabrics and send e-mails to their customers. For the entire newsletter
and ideas for you or your store, visit
www.pugetsoundsewingandcraft.com
(Maybe
you could be the one to write it and promote yourself too!!) Or, you
can have a blog like Katrina's that I have put below Nancy's Pacific
Fabrics Newsletter. When one can master publicity, one can be
successful. Congrats Nancy and Katrina!!! Pati
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What's Happening at Pacific Fabrics & Crafts! |
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January 29, 2009 |
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Dear Nancy,
Are you ready for
the BIG game this Sunday? (You know, the one that
involves the word "Super".) Whether you're a fan or
not, plan on stopping by one of our stores
to pick up some supplies. No, we're not selling
snacks or beverages, but I do have some great crafty
ideas to enhance the day for you! In my home, we're
not big fans, but I've frequently enjoyed theming
the day's meal around football, anyway.
We have some cool
football fabrics, appliques and stickers in our
stores as you can see here. Pick up some fabric to
make coasters or circular napkins or a quicky
tablecloth or pillowcase. (Check our
Projects Page.) If there are children involved,
buy some stickers so they can make team cheer signs
to display on the table and walls and buy football
appliques to iron onto plain t-shirts for them.
Won't the fans in your house be proud of you?
Our
Project Linus Fabric Drive starts
on Sunday, February 1st and runs
through the whole month. There's more info below and
I have other events for you to put on your calendar,
too. So get out your planner and get ready to save
the dates. Attending a creative event or two is a
wonderful way to brighten up the gray winter days!
And, of course, I
have more Valentine ideas for you this week. Some
heartfelt fun for you and the kids, too!
Okay, keep reading -
there are great things in store for you this week at
Pacific Fabrics and Crafts . . . |
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Pants for Real People
Finally - pants that fit!
Nancy Seifert, a former staff member, wants to get
you into a great fitting pair of pants. Sound good?
Nancy is a certified Palmer/Pletsch Educational Associate
and teaches this well known method of fitting and sewing at most of our
stores.
I just heard that there are openings in her February
7th Pants for Real People class at our Northgate
store. This is an amazing
opportunity as Nancy's classes are usually some of
the first to fill when our new Class Schedule comes
out. So, if you thought it was too late to register
or have just been putting it off - don't wait any
longer! Get yourself to the
web site, select Northgate under Search by
Location and sign up. If you'd like, you can call
(206-362-0111) or visit the
Northgate store to sign up, too. But, hurry!
This is a case of "good things come to those who act
first".
If you'd like
to know a little more about Palmer/Pletsch,
click here to read Katrina's blog post about her
recent experience. |
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And speaking of going quickly . . . the
Sewing & Stitchery Expo
brochures are now available at all of our
stores and
online and the seminars fill very quickly. In
fact, there is a "sold out" list on the Expo site
already! This year is the 25th Anniversary of this
"biggest & best in the nation" show held annually at
the Puyallup Fairgrounds and it's going to be
fabulous!
When you're checking
out the
Expo classes, start by turning to
page 20. That's where you'll find the seminar that
I'm teaching and two taught by Mary Mulari (A to Z - Sewing by the Alphabet
&
No Excuses for Drab Sweatshirts)
that we are sponsoring. We have the pleasure of
hosting Mary at our booth this year and she has some
really cool things planned for you.
As for my seminar (Throw
Out the Rules - Let's Make Sewing Fun Again),
if you want to sew clothes, but it sounds scary,
come spend a little time with me and there will be
no stopping you - promise! I've already heard from
some of you that are signed up and I'm really
looking forward to meeting my email friends. I'll be
in the booth everyday and in the
"Go Red" Style Show
on Sunday. Be sure to stop by and say hello! |
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Katrina's recent blog
(also on the Pacific Fabrics site): http://www.pugetsoundsewingandcraft.com/blog/
January 28, 2009
Happy
students with
fit expert Pati Palmer
This past weekend I was fortunate to be able to attend the four day
Pant Fitting and Sewing Workshop with
Pati Palmer at the Palmer/Pletsch International School of Sewing in
Portland, Oregon. It was an amazing experience. The students, who
hailed from all over the United States and Canada, brought a broad range
of experience and backgrounds with them. Learning to fit all the
different body types was incredibly rewarding as each student was
revealed in a beautifully fitting pair of pants! Much spontaneous
applause and appreciation was heard around the room as everyone proudly
modeled the best fitting pair of slacks they'd ever owned - that they'd
learned to fit and sew themselves.
For those of you who can't make it to Portland - good news!
Pacific Fabrics offers fit classes with Palmer/Pletsch
Educational Associate
Nancy Seifert (page 15 of the current catalog).
Her intensive
Pants
for Real People - 2 Day Express Workshop is being
offered in several locations during February and March.
So if you've been frustrated with trying to sew pants that truly fit and
flatter - don't wait any longer! You will be be amazed at the
difference a properly fitted pant can make.
--Katrina
A STUDENT AT A NANCY SEIFERT CLASS
WROTE IN HER BLOG
www.pinkchalkstudio.com
Nancy drove to Bremerton Washington to do a class for just 3 people and
got an amazing write-up in this blog (see below). Then I wrote the
blogger and told her I enjoyed what she wrote and told her about our new
cookbook. Below is her response. This is virtual marketing at its best.
I put the blog story below.
“Thanks for your lovely note Pati! I've already ordered your jacket
book. I'm so impressed with all the techniques you've developed. I told
Nancy it was truly a life changing experience for me. Like many women, I
used to make a lot of clothes for myself as a 20 something. I could buy
a pattern, make it exactly and it would fit perfectly. 2 kids later that
was not the case any longer and I didn't understand why, I just thought
I needed a bigger size. I'm having so much fun planning my new projects.
It's so empowering!
Thanks for the link on the recipe book. I'm a big proponent of the
family meal. My husband and I both cook a family dinner nightly. I
ordered the book and look forward to reviewing that as well!”
Take care and have a fabulous week,
Kathy Mack
Pink Chalk Studio
PO Box 11551
Bainbridge Island, WA 98110
(206) 842-1671
e-mail:
kathy@pinkchalkstudio.com
website:
www.pinkchalkstudio.com
blog:
www.pinkchalkstudio.com/blog
fabric shop:
www.pinkchalkfabrics.com
Jan 19th, 2009 by
Kathy

I spent 8 hours on Saturday at the Pacific Fabrics in Bremerton learning
the
Palmer/Pletsch method of fitting, taught by the very talented Nancy
Seifert. 2 other lovely ladies and I spent the day walking around in our
bras learning how to fit commercial patterns to our unique shapes. Part
2 is another 8 hours next Saturday.
To say I had a light bulb
moment would be an understatement. All the pattern failures I've
experienced over the last 10 years! OMG. I never even had a chance
without the Full Bust
Adjustment.

The class uses the book
Fit for Real People and McCall's
Learn to Fit Palmer/Pletsch pattern 2718. The instructor has bodices
made up in each size and within the size there's one for each bust
adjustment provided with the pattern. The student tries these on to
determine their base pattern size.
All commercial patterns are a B cup. The class takes the student through
fitting a basic bodice adjusting from the B cup to their cup size plus
all the other funky things a 46 year old body has like high round back,
forward shoulder, high shoulder (from carrying those babies around!),
sagging breasts (they refer to this as lowering the bust darts), and, my
favorite, more waist width.

A pattern adjustment technique exists for each type of alteration. I've
made several attempts over the years to use these books and teach myself
at home how to do the alteration. Looking back that was just plain
crazy. A trained instructor can identify exactly the alterations you
need and move straight to Go by teaching you how to do each one. I've
always gotten bogged down in the past, feeling overwhelmed by all the
different alterations possible and not being able to identify what I
needed.

But let's go back to that full bust adjustment. You can see on the
tissue here that I added a full 1 3/4″ to the width of the bodice and
deepened the bust darts accordingly. It fits perfectly!
What was I doing before:
1. I was buying size 14 or 16 patterns to match my bust measurement. My
base pattern size should be a 12. The larger sized patterns created all
kinds of baggy fitting issues and still didn't fit through the chest
(because the patterns were still a B cup!)
2. I was trying to give my chest space by extending the side seam
allowances. Again, All I ended up with was a baggy shirt and it still
didn't fit my bust.

For next Saturday's class we bring in a commercial pattern that we'll
tissue fit in class. I started practicing last night. Repeating the
technique while it's fresh in my mind is the way I learn best. I'm so
darned excited I can hardly stand it!
1/23/09: I was asked about finding a class in your area. I've updated
the reference to
Palmer/Pletsch above with a link to their website. They provide a
list of
certified instructors here. Many of these instructors will teach a
class at local sewing shops or provide custom classes for groups. I
first heard about them from other members in my American Sewing Guild
group. Definitely contact the person in your area for more info.
Posted in
Sewing | 20 Comments
20 Responses to “Enlightenment + The Full Bust Adjustment”
1.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 12:33 pmSarah
Jackson
super super cool!! I would love to learn to do that. I rarely sew
clothes for myself because of fit issues and I need to get over that.
2.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 12:40 pmChristina
Good thing I didn't attempt to make the dress pattern I bought several
months back, I don't think I could figure my way around adjusting it for DDD. It was never a problem before I had baby. Glad to know it's a
standard B on patterns. I'll keep that in mind when looking at patterns
now. Thanks!
3.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 1:08 pmMeg
Kathy, this is fabulous information! Now that I am, ahem … no longer a B
cup and hopefully looking forward to more pregnancies and many years of
breastfeeding in the future, I'll have to look into this. Thanks!
4.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 1:24 pmKristin
L
I love the concept to muslin bodices with various alterations so one can
find just what they need. I have sort of the opposite problem as you
have in that I'm an A cup and things tend to poof out on me. Also, when
I take my measurements, I'm a pattern size 12, but when I make clothes
from that, they are huge. When I make clothes with the 6 or 8 sized
pattern, it's much closer — which means I hate trying to alter the
patterns since the numbers on the package never match how the fabric
actually fits me. It would be great to have a pro show me just what
adjustments I'd need to make stuff fit my body. Question: if you figure
out what adjustments you need based on, say McCall's patterns, then
would you have to start from scratch again with New Look, or Burda,
Simplicity, or even Butterick? (I've found I am not beholden to one
brand — very fickle.)
5.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 1:25 pmJessica
Robinson
I can't wait to see what you make - it is going to fit like a T.
Is this a traveling class? I'd love to take it. Can you give us more
info about contacting the instructor or someone who might be able to
give me more info?
6.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 1:49 pmKathy
Kristin: All the major companies use the same sloper. The Fit for Real
People book has a great page where she makes the same simple design in
the same size from 6 different pattern companies (Vogue, Butterick,
McCalls, Simplicity, Style & Burda). The top fits the model in a similar
way for all the companies (the same fitting issues show up for the model
as well).
She talks about how there is the myth out there where people say ‘oh
Vogue fits me better than McCall's etc. but it's just not true. They all
use a very similar sloper as their base.
7.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 2:14 pmjam
Although I used to make most of my clothes, now that my measurements are
for the “mature” woman I don't even try. When I worked (pre-motherhood)
I used to make “Very Easy Very Vogue” all the time. I'll look for the
book, but I really need to look for that class in the Chicago area.
Thanks for the heads up. I wish the quilt and craft patterns were
universal. Figuring out the craft patterns is always a challenge for me.
8.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 2:51 pmJean Marie
Both Simplicity and McCall patterns have a few patterns which have
different patterns for B, C, and D-cups. They won't have all the
adjustments needed, but I find that it can help to have some of the work
already done!
It's easier to locate the Simplicity ones on their website, under the
Pattern Shop heading at the left navigating column, look under Special
Collections for B, C, D cup Adjustment Collection and click to get a
list/thumbnail of the patterns available. Some of the patterns are
already in their out-of-print patterns, and those you have to look for
by going through each top or dress listing - the adjustment is usually
noted in the pattern description.
McCall's are the Made-For-You patterns - but there isn't any easy way to
find them on the website. I've tried using the search function but as I
get what seem to be random listings including everything from crafts to
baby clothes, I'm either entering the wrong words or the search engine
isn't given access to the field that has those words.
The one thing I do differently from the Palmer Pletsch method is that I
trace the pattern pieces onto Swedish Tracing paper. It's sturdier than
tissue paper, and I still have the original pattern pieces if I mess up
the alterations. I'd love to take the class, I've just worked from the
book (and from Fitting Finesse by Nancy Zieman), and some patterns I
haven't been able to adjust to work for me (ex. one of the Simplicity
blouse patterns with the cup adjustments just won't work for me) and I'd
like to know why!
9.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 2:57 pmStephanie
This post is filled with all kinds of wonderful information for me. As a
E/F I've obviously always had problems.
10.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 3:07 pmMelanie
How exciting! I love those lightbulb moments. Looking forward to seeing
what you do with your new techniques!
11.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 5:35 pmStephanie
That sounds like a really neat and useful class. I have a little bit of
the opposite problem (Small Bust Adjustment). Usually I can get away
with just using the pattern based on my high bust measurement and then
expanding out at the waist. I'd love to take a class to learn how to do
a proper SBA and figure out how much difference it makes.
P.S. I'm assuming they told you ahead of time that you'd be exposing
your bra? I would be so embarrassed if I showed up in my “just running
to Target” bra.
12.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 7:50 pmLisa
I also used to make many of my own clothes… back when I was in my 20s
the patterns fit me fine. Now that I am almost 43 I have the same
sagging, wider thing going on and they no longer fit as well! I also
used to be a B-cup but post-baby have been left a size larger in that
area as well.
13.
on 19
Jan 2009 at 8:20 pmSarah
Nancy's classes are always the first to sell out at Pac. Fabs. I've
always wanted to take one. Next Fall I hope to get into the Pants fit
class. I'm excited to see your finished blouse, be sure to have a photo
shoot when it's completed.
THERE WERE MANY MORE COMMENTS, BUT I NEEDED TO CUT IT HERE. Go to the
web site as she does a good job. Pati
FROM CONNIE HAMILTON,
HARTWELL, GA
Recently I had an experience which might spark some ideas for other
teachers and thought I'd share my thoughts.
When we moved to Georgia I joined the local quilt guild as a way to meet
other fiber arts people. I told them I was not a quilter but they said
that was no problem, I was welcome to join and they hoped they could
convert me. I regularly went to their monthly meetings, sincerely
admired their quilts and watched their demonstrations. Everyone was
quite friendly but after almost a year I still felt like an orphan in a
big family. At the last meeting everything changed!
That meeting was held on a chilly night and I decided to wear a jacket
I'd made. About eight years ago several friends and I had impulsively
bought fat quarter packs of coordinated fabrics to make this quilted
jacket using a sweatshirt as a base. All of us were garment sewers and
became very frustrated with cutting perfectly good pieces of fabric
apart only to sew little pieces back together to create new yardage,
then fitting it to the ripped apart sweatshirt pieces and finally
quilting the whole thing. We nicknamed our creations the "jackets from
hell" and vowed we'd never do another.
At the quilting guild meeting the time for 'show and tell' arrived and I
bravely stood up to show my one and only piece of quilted work.
Everyone oohed and aahed and asked what batting I'd used, how I
constructed it, how I did the pockets, etc. etc. After the meeting
several ladies came up to talk and look at the jacket detail. They were
especially interested in the pockets which are like the Sporty Designer
Side Seam Pockets in the Pant book and asked if I'd give a lesson to the
group on how to make them. Who could have guessed that my jacket from
hell would be the key to my acceptance as a "real" seamstress and
teaching a class as well!
The moral of my story is, "When in Rome, do as Rome does." Over the
years I've tried many times to think of classes which would interest the
abundance of quilting groups but most think fashion sewers just don't
have much to offer. All I had to do was _wear_ something _quilted_ and
I had them hooked! There are many quilters who would love to sew
garments but they can't get the fit right and give up in despair. We
just have to figure out a way to gain their respect and interest. If it
takes making and wearing a jacket from hell, I'll be glad to do it.
FROM ROSANNA BENBOW,
WASILLA, AK
Happy New Year to you both and your families, this year has been so very
exciting for me with attending your school in Portland and then really
beginning to live my dream of teaching sewing and I know the new year
will bring even more of the same.
Well here's the best ASC Sew News from the far north, besides getting my
Learn to Sew classes up a running I've decided to open the Alaskan Style
Creations (ASC) Sewing Lounge similar to what Seam's Diva's is doing ,
which will be open for those who want to sew with some help on their
sewing projects. It's not going to be a structured class type of
setting, nor will they need to attend weekly, just whenever needing some
help, hopefully it will be fun and educational for all and I can share
some of my Palmer/Pletsch training.
I'm most excited about my new web page which is finally up and running
so please check it out, it is still under construction as they call it,
therefore, there will be some changes and additions to the page soon.
Take a look at it the address is
www.ascschoolofsewing.com and my brochure
that I hired someone to do for me. Please take a look and let me know
what you think.
Rosanna (Roxann) Benbow, CSI
Palmer/Pletch Certified Sewing Instructor
ASC School of Sewing
(907) 373-5651 or 841-2759 cell
www.ascschoolofsewing.com
FROM FERN MACDONALD, VICTORIA, BC
I have
just finished the dress and pants from 5716 and I now have a new
favorite for pants. I am offering a 2 day workshop on this pant in
Feb. I think it is a real winner. What I esp. like is the waist
treatment the way the band fits it is sooooo flattering. I have a full
tummy and a flat seat (Yeah like 90 % of the over 40s have) I eliminated
all darts. I did narrow the legs slightly as I am height challenged and
I shortened the crotch length. I did the flat seat adjustment as I do
on all my pants. The first pair is a wool and lycra blend with good
recovery. Perfect! The second pair is wool suiting, Perfect. The
third pair is wool crepe Perfect. I did not line the stretch wool but
both other pairs I did. I am tickled with them all. It is quicker to
make a pair of pants than to try and find a good quality pair in
ready-made no matter what the price. My dress is made from red crepe
viscose. I did my usual adjustments and it too is just what I wanted.
Keep the great patterns coming. I teach a lot and recommend your
patterns. I will see you this summer. I should send you some pictures
of the garments I have made. I always wear a Palmer Pletsch garment to
teach my seminars at the sewing show. It's good to have patterns that
you can recommend without reservation. Thanks again
Cheers, Fern MacDonald, Victoria, BC
FROM JANET MALWITZ, MUSE, PA
I don't know if you're familiar with Joy Mangano -- she's on Home
Shopping Network a lot with some great products. You may have heard
about huggable hangers, which is one of her products. Anyway, a couple
weeks ago I tuned in to HSN & she was selling a 3-way mirror that can be
hung on the wall or over the door. I got it for about $120 with
shipping. It's just fantastic. It's a very good quality. I have it on
my door in my sewing room and used it this week to fit a pattern. Sure
beats doing contortions trying to hold the pattern in place & using a
hand-held mirror to view the back. They periodically run specials on
her products. Just thought I'd let you know. You can see it if you go
to
www.hsn.com and searh on Joy Mangano.
FROM RACHEL ARIAS,
INDIANAPOLIS, IN
I've changed my e-mail address from
Rachel.arias@sbcglobal.net to
sewfie@comcast.net. I have been teaching Beginning Sewing continuously and still enjoy it
very much. I still work full time, however I'm holding my classes on
Saturday, which works out just fine.
Take care.
Rachel Arias
FROM KARLIE LABATIQUE, TORRINGTON, CT
I just
developed a web site (I'm so excited) and was wondering if it's possible
to put it with my name is listed in the teacher's section? Let me know
if you like it. Do I get points for this?
Also, I hope
it's okay that I used the picture of the patterns?
The website is
www.sewshouldyou.com.
Thank you,
Karlie
FROM CINDY CHAMBERS, CALGARY,AB
I have held my first couple pants classes, and everyone seems to be
pleased. I have one student, however, that we just couldn't get to fit
correctly, and I told her that I would send photos and see if you could
assist. We were using M5239, view A, although we moved the zipper to a
front fly instead of in the back(no pockets). Sally has a very flat
derriere, so we took out the full amount marked on the tissue for the
flat back adjustment. I shifted the inseam on the back to have a wider
seam allowance. There was still too much bagginess under the curve of
the derriere and at the upper back thigh, so I took out a “dart” (much
like a shaped dart for the fitting of a bodice) and “smooshed” the ends
to flatten the pattern. We lowered the crotch seam lower than the
lowest stitching line. In the end, the fit wasn't bad – better than
she was getting in ready to wear – but still too much fabric through the
back thigh for what she wanted. Perhaps we should have been using a
jeans pattern, although I didn't get the sense that she wanted a snug
jean look. I'm enclosing a photo of the back to see if you have any
thoughts about what else I should have done to try to eliminate the
bagginess.
As an aside, did you know that the patterns we're getting here in Canada
don't have the fitting instructions in the guide sheet? I picked up
some patterns last night for an upcoming class, and there are only 5
pages of instructions, rather than 8, and what is missing is all of the
how to tissue fit instructions. Don't know if it is the difference
between patterns here vs. in the US, or whether McCalls has changed
their printing on all of the patterns.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Cindy

PATI'S ANSWER
Hi, Good job. Here are a couple of thoughts. Thanks for sending the
photos as they allowed me to make an instant evaluation.
She
is probably much lower in the back than in the front. If you want
to be daring, chalk a lower crotch line up to 1 1/2" lower, stitch and
trim. Then lower waistband by that amount at the top of the center back.
Another thought, see the lines pointing to her sides. If you first tried
pulling the sides down, the lines might go away. She is higher on the
right hip. So pull that side down more. When she has the tissue on, see
if the crotch line is parallel to the floor. If not, pull the side down
or the center back up until it is.
I have a feeling it is a combo of both needs. Pati
FROM CINDY CHAMBERS, CALGARY, AB
Me
again with more questions about pant fitting. A student in my current
class has a very short crotch depth and very round tummy. I recall you
saying how many there were in our class last summer, but apparently I
didn't pay enough attention to how to fit them (the woman from
California that comes every year has a similar shape, and I'm trying to
remember what you did for her, but can't).

In
this case, we eliminated the front darts and shortened the crotch depth
both front and back on the shorten line…which resulted in cutting
through the fly extension. The zipper is now about 3 ½” long. Because
we're using M5239, View B (pockets) the pocket opening became too small
to get her hand in. We changed the angle of the pocket opening and
lengthened it a bit. That of course means we needed to adjust the
pocket facing and side front as well. I recall you telling us that
there was a mistake on the pattern, having to do with the pocket facing,
and I'm not sure if that is contributing to the current problem or not.
I can't figure out how to alter the pocket facing and have it fit the
front properly. Because there is now no dart in the front, the facing
no longer fits properly along the waistline, and the waistlines don't
match up (the facing is angled, whereas the pant waist is more straight
- ie. perpendicular to the grain). Even when I look at a brand new
pattern, the facing and pant front don't match at the waistline, so I'm
not able to figure out how to alter the facing. The photo I'm enclosing
shows the facing stitched to the pocket opening, with the facing waist
quite far above the pant waist. If we attach the waists together, we
get puckers in the facing. If we let it lay smooth and trim the waist
of the facing, then the facing is off grain.
In
order to have this student progress and get her zipper in, I ended up
having her stitch the pocket to the facing to create the pocket bag, and
then just remove the facing completely. This is more like M3740 in
terms of how the pocket is finished, and I hope it will work out OK. In
retrospect, I should have insisted that she be fit in back zip pants
with no pockets or welt pockets so that we could get her pattern fitted
properly. However, she is quite arthritic and can't easily fasten back
zip pants.
Can
you suggest how I might have approached this student's fitting
challenges more effectively (ie. need for front zip, very short crotch
depth, very round tummy)? And can you clarify why the facing on View B
of M4239 goes all the way across the front to the zipper? I know that
it helps pleats lay flat, but in a non-pleated version, I'm wondering if
it is necessary?
Thanks as always for your assistance.
Cindy
PATI'S ANSWER
Pant #5239. The pattern problem was a mistake in drafting and the
bottom edges of the pocket bags didn't match. When pinning the pieces
together for tissue-fitting, you can trim your lining and pocket lower
edges to match.
The key is getting everything right in tissue fitting first. Every
change you make on the front should be made on tissue pieces that get
sewed to it. It is easier to check yourself first in tissue. So, if the
pocket is too short, you can change the pocket, the facing, and lining
angles to match the front if you made the front pocket longer.
When you match the top edges of the lining and pant, there will be
"play" in the pocket for give when you sit. If you don't want it, trim
all edges even while lining is flat.
If you leave out darts in View A, you will need to add the width of the
dart to the CF of the lining.
You could prevent the zipper and pocket opening from being so short by
shortening the front both in the zipper area and just below the
zipper/pocket area, being careful not to get into the crotch curve.
However, some people are ok with a short opening if their waste is as
large as their hips.
FROM ROSANNA BENBOW,
WASILLA, AK
After spending the 6 weeks in Portland at school last summer my business
is off to a good start as I have 6 full time students and 4 part timers
so far, although not enough to live on but it's a good start. The
University of Alaska classes have not been to successful yet, only
gotten 2 students so far, so we will see what happens with the spring
sign-up. I will send you the link to my web page as soon as it's up as I
hired a marketing person to help me get more visibility for my business.
Best Regards
and Happy Sewing,
Rosanna (Roxann)
Benbow, CSI
Palmer/Pletch
Certified Sewing Instructor
Alaskan Style
Creations and School of Sewing
(907)
373-5651 or 841-2759 cell
FROM CONNIE HAMILTON, HARTWELL, GA
What a year of frantic activity and change! Our house in Indiana
finally sold in April and we had 13 days to pack up 35 years'
accumulation of 'stuff' and move all 10 tons of it to our newly
constructed garage in Georgia. We're now gutting and renovating the
house. My temporary sewing room is in the unfinished upstairs room of
the new garage, which doesn't sound too inviting but is my wonderful
private getaway for right now. It is clean, quiet, and equipped with my
cutting table, sewing machines, ironing board, CD player, and a lock on
the door.
Although I'm scrambling to finish up my required CEUs for this year I
won't have any trouble at all from here on out. In this small town
rural area I have used this year to ferret out any opportunities for
promoting or teaching sewing and have made lots of progress - some of
which won't bear fruit until 2009. I joined an informal group of ladies
who meet once a week to knit/crochet/handsew and found one who wanted
help with her serger and another who wants to tissue fit a blouse.
Another lady in the group holds a two week craft camp in the summer and
I did a Winky Cherry stuffed animal class for that. (The kids LOVED
it. It was one of the most popular activities in the whole camp.) I've
made contact with the 4-H program here but don't think anything will
materialize with that in the near future so am going to talk with the
Girl Scout program soon. The closest ASG Chapter is in Atlanta but the
closest neighborhood group is 2 hours away and the one I'd probably be
most interested in is 3 hours away. This has lead me to explore the
possibility of forming a neighborhood group here in Hartwell. I'm
running across more and more women who have sewn garments in the past or
who are interested in sewing but have no support group. The owner of a
local craft shop says she will help me publicize and promote an ASG
group here and I'm about ready to make contact with Atlanta's ASG
Neighborhood Group Coordinator to discuss possibilities.
One of my most productive contacts has come from my name being on the
teacher list on the P/P website. A lady in Anderson, South Carolina
(just across the lake from us) called about helping her fit pants on
herself and also helping her learn tissue fitting so she could use it
with her teenage sewing students. I, of course, was thrilled to be of
assistance and Tina and I have developed a fun friendship as well as a
steady working relationship. As it turns out, she is also a homeschool
mom and most of her sewing students are also in the homeschool
cooperative which they belong to. She brought up a very interesting
possibility that might be of interest to other teachers. The sewing
students' moms are hoping the state will allow the girls to count their
sewing classes as Home Ec. credits toward their educational
requirements. Tina asked if I would be interested in doing some more
'formal' type classes for the girls, such as something on the history of
sewing, the development of patternmaking, fabric types, etc. She
suggested that perhaps I could use the P/P Fit book as a 'textbook' and
the girls could buy them as part of their curriculum. I think this is a
fantastic idea and my Palmer/Pletsch certification will lend credibility
to this endeavor. I can already think of other possibilities for a
class of this type. Although most of the fabric mills have closed or
gone out-of-country there are still a few around here and maybe we could
arrange a tour. Perhaps the girls could help design and sew costumes
for one of the several community theater organizations in the area.
There are local people who raise sheep and spin and dye yarn from the
wool and another lady who does beautiful custom loomweavings - all very
intriguing fiber arts. For any teachers in less populated areas or
where there are limited teaching opportunities, the home school sector
might be a promising avenue to check out. Hope I can get to Portland
sometime soon for refresher classes and a recharge. Connie Hamilton,
Hartwell, GA (Formerly from Indianapolis)

FROM GAYLE DUDLY,
COLORADO SPRINGS, CO
Pati,
here's a picture of my students last semester. These were my
advanced students and they all choose to make dresses from
Melissa's DIY Style pattern
line. They found the instructions easy to follow and really liked the
result. Please share these with Melissa.
Gayle
Dudley
Steamboat Springs High School
Career/College Counselor
Creative Expressions Instructor
45 E.
Maple St, Steamboat, CO 80487
970-871-3641 Fax 970-879-7226
gdudley@sssd.k12.co.us
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