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UPDATE NEWSLETTER
  for ALL Palmer/Pletsch Teachers

2009 Number 1                                                                                                 February 2009

Happy New Year to all Palmer/Pletsch Instructors!!

We were snowed in for nearly two weeks during the holidays. I didn't even get out to buy a live tree, which was fine since Paul and I left for Hawaii January 2nd. Now I am back getting caught up and ready for Puyallup. Here is some news from Palmer/Pletsch and it is followed by NEWS FROM YOU!! Thanks for sending me your experiences to share with the other teachers. It is inspirational!

SEWING & STITCHERY EXPO IN PUYALLUP, February 26 to March 1, 2009

This year is going to be very exciting for me. Of course Marta and I will be teaching as usual and doing the McCall's, Vogue, Butterick fashion shows at 9:30 am. each day. In addition, my daughter Melissa will be debuting her DIY line for McCall's at a seminar on the Free Stage at 12:30 pm Sat. and Sunday. And, on Sunday there is a “RED” fashion show supporting healthy hears. Melissa will be wearing my new red dress and jacket—McCall's 5716 and I will be wearing hers—McCall's 5705 (if I get it sewn—they asked for a mom/daughter pair—I will do my best!)  We will also be introducing two new DVDs as well as one by my Chiropractor. I will tell you about these below. If you can attend Expo, it is a wonderful event. Plan on being there for three days to see all the exhibits and take in lectures for which you can sign up at www.sewexpo.com  

New DVD!    LOOKING GOOD LIVE!

Nancy Rice, author of Looking Good, came to Portland and we filmed her wonderful image seminar.  She gave a lot of great tips that are not in her book. As the camera person, I came away as ready to update my look to appear younger/thinner!  Don't we all?

New DVD!   FULL BUSTED? SEW CLOTHES THAT FIT!

Full-busted women buy oversized clothes so they can button the front. Learn how to buy the right size pattern and make it fit your full bust. We filmed several full-busted women of varying ages and sizes being fitted. Marta also demonstrates dart manipulation and styles that might be challenges for doing the adjustments.

 

MY CHIROPRACTOR WILL SPEAK IN PUYALLUP

I have a wonderful chiropractor who works more on muscle tension than bone manipulation and IT WORKS FOR ME!!  He also has studied yoga for years and has come up with a simple routine you can perform on the floor that will prevent pain by opening your joints. I am putting information about his topic for Puyallup below. He has also made a DVD on his yoga routine. We offer his DVD on our web site and will have it in our booth at Puyallup.

Posture and Pain-prevention for Sewers
Saturday and Sunday 11:30 AM
Dr. Michael Sears, Chiropractic Physician and registered Yoga Therapist

Learn what you can easily practice at home for improved health, looks, and pain relief. Scientific research has shown that good posture is one of the best indicators of a person's overall health. The more we slump, the more internal compressions restrict our organs from getting life-giving nutrients. Science shows us that poor postures keeps us in pain and leads to unhealthy organs and disease. And, poor posture is unbecoming.  Being uneven influences how we look and feel in our clothing. Dr. Sears will show you a simple routine for aligning your body and better breathing that will contribute to better posture and health. Meet him after the session in the Palmer/Pletsch booth #237-239, Expo Hall. His DVD is available in the Palmer/Pletsch booth or at www.docbones.com.

WORKSHOP CHANGES

Beginning in 2009, I am shortening teacher training for fit and pant fit to one day. The shopping day is still the day after the workshop and teacher training the next day. Since I am eliminating the first day, we won't do the makeover photo in these two workshops. I will extend the hours of the Teacher Training Day to be 8:30 -5pm. We will do the ever-important fit practice and still have some time to talk about classes.

For Fit, I will no longer include muslin and patterns. With the airline restrictions, getting the muslin home creates an issue. When we used to use gingham in a multitude of colors, it was necessary for us to provide it to you. Everyone can get muslin at home and McCall's offers teachers a super price on #2718 fit pattern. 

Many already have the The Business of Teaching Sewing and don't want a copy at each workshop. It can be purchased at Fabric Depot or online and read ahead of time. Bring your questions to the workshop.

I will reduce the price of the teacher training from $395 to $195. 

The photo/makeover session will be included with the tailoring teacher training. Since Marta doesn't use slides when she teaches the tailoring workshop, I will go over your slides and how to use them on that day as well.

Repeat teachers, you will pay for the workshop, but the teacher training day will be free if you've taken it in the past. 

We've decided to drop the early payment discount in order to not raise workshop prices which we haven't done for years. We felt it would be a compromise for all.

I am also adding more pant and fit workshops for 2010. Check out our Web site by mid-March for these changes.

Don't forget to consider our newest workshop:

FIVE-DAY SEWING VACATION:
Be Your Own Designer--
Pattern Drafting & Draping

July 30-August 3, 2009
August 5-9, 2010

featuring Tricia Crockett, Design Instructor from the Art Institute in Portland $750

  • Draft your own bodice and skirt block onto Perfect Pattern Paper.
  • Tissue-fit to perfection.
  • Learn to design from these personal blocks.

First project: A basic T-shirt in a knit. Learn to add ease, create the neckline you want and other design details in this easy-to-complete project.

Bring a collection of pictures of fashion ideas you'd like to design. Tricia will help you determine which design you will create for yourself using flat pattern and/or draping techniques.

You will cut and sew the design during the remaining time in the workshop or you can do additional designs.

Recommended Prerequisites: Palmer/Pletsch Fit and Pant Fitting and Sewing Workshops

If class size is over 10, Marta Alto and/or Pati Palmer will assist in the fitting.

NEW PATTERNS

For my newest designs go to:  http://www.palmerpletsch.com/patterns-mccalls.htm

For Melissas's go to:  http://www.palmerpletsch.com/patterns_diystyle.htm

CSI RENEWALS

I am about to review the status of Palmer/Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructors and update our Web site.  Check your certificate for your expiration/renewal date so you can maintain your presence on our Web list of teachers. Also, if you have a Web site, we can add it to your name. Send your site address along with your name, city and state to  wizbiz@wisnercreative.com. In the subject line, write CSI Web Update. If your CSI has long expired, you can re-apply. Just e-mail me for the latest forms patipalmer@aol.com.

THE PULSE  -  NEWS FROM THE TRENCHES…

A GRASS ROOTS ANALASIS OF FASHION SEWING TRENDS FROM PALMER/PLETSCH INSTRUCTORS

A PUBLICITY STORY

Nancy Seifert and Katrina Walker both are masterful at publicity. There are many ways to get it. A store can have a newsletter like the one below for Pacific Fabrics and send e-mails to their customers. For the entire newsletter and ideas for you or your store, visit www.pugetsoundsewingandcraft.com  (Maybe you could be the one to write it and promote yourself too!!)  Or, you can have a blog like Katrina's that I have put below Nancy's Pacific Fabrics Newsletter. When one can master publicity, one can be successful. Congrats Nancy and Katrina!!! Pati
 

What's Happening at Pacific Fabrics & Crafts!

 

 January 29, 2009

In this issue . . .

:: For Your Calendar - Save the Date

:: Project Linus Fabric Drive in February

:: Pants for Real People the Palmer/Pletsch Way

:: Sewing & Stitchery Expo - Tickets Are Here

:: Warm a Heart or Two or Three

 

 

Dear Nancy,  

Are you ready for the BIG game this Sunday? (You know, the one that involves the word "Super".) Whether you're a fan or not, plan on stopping by one of our storesFootball fabrics, stickers & appliques to pick up some supplies. No, we're not selling snacks or beverages, but I do have some great crafty ideas to enhance the day for you! In my home, we're not big fans, but I've frequently enjoyed theming the day's meal around football, anyway.

We have some cool football fabrics, appliques and stickers in our stores as you can see here. Pick up some fabric to make coasters or circular napkins or a quicky tablecloth or pillowcase. (Check our Projects Page.) If there are children involved, buy some stickers so they can make team cheer signs to display on the table and walls and buy football appliques to iron onto plain t-shirts for them. Won't the fans in your house be proud of you?

Our Project Linus Fabric Drive starts on Sunday, February 1st and runs through the whole month. There's more info below and I have other events for you to put on your calendar, too. So get out your planner and get ready to save the dates. Attending a creative event or two is a wonderful way to brighten up the gray winter days!

And, of course, I have more Valentine ideas for you this week. Some heartfelt fun for you and the kids, too!

Okay, keep reading - there are great things in store for you this week at Pacific Fabrics and Crafts . . .

Pants for Real People

Finally - pants that fit!

Nancy Seifert, a former staff member, wants to get you into a great fitting pair of pants. Sound good?

Nancy is a certified Palmer/Pletsch Educational Associate and teachesnancy Seifert, Palmer/Pletsch Educational Associate this well known method of fitting and sewing at most of our stores. I just heard that there are openings in her February 7th Pants for Real People class at our Northgate store. This is an amazing opportunity as Nancy's classes are usually some of the first to fill when our new Class Schedule comes out. So, if you thought it was too late to register or have just been putting it off - don't wait any longer! Get yourself to the web site, select Northgate under Search by Location and sign up. If you'd like, you can call (206-362-0111) or visit the Northgate store to sign up, too. But, hurry! This is a case of "good things come to those who act first".

If you'd like to know a little more about Palmer/Pletsch, click here to read Katrina's blog post about her recent experience.

And speaking of going quickly . . . the Sewing & Stitchery Expohttp://rs6.net/tn.jsp?et=1102433778505&e=001FD8ppGtqu7gPWmgvy1z9eMWqd0-9c4p6kBkOnBJhiRALkuzrrFaJ_yvI72smVuLMkvQM_PRKnEXkGzz8sjtFpZlypx443iuzUEjc9sT1oKGRcD-3-8TwDg== brochures are now available at all of our stores and online and the seminars fill very quickly. In fact, there is a "sold out" list on the Expo site already! This year is the 25th Anniversary of this "biggest & best in the nation" show held annually at the Puyallup Fairgrounds and it's going to be fabulous!

When you're checking out the Expo classes, start by turning to page 20. That's where you'll find the seminar that I'm teaching and two taught by Mary Mulari (A to Z - Sewing by the Alphabet & No Excuses for Drab Sweatshirts) that we are sponsoring. We have the pleasure of hosting Mary at our booth this year and she has some really cool things planned for you.

As for my seminar (Throw Out the Rules - Let's Make Sewing Fun Again), if you want to sew clothes, but it sounds scary, come spend a little time with me and there will be no stopping you - promise! I've already heard from some of you that are signed up and I'm really looking forward to meeting my email friends. I'll be in the booth everyday and in the "Go Red" Style Show on Sunday. Be sure to stop by and say hello! 

Katrina's recent blog
(also on the Pacific Fabrics site):
http://www.pugetsoundsewingandcraft.com/blog/

January 28, 2009

Sew Pants that Fit!

Happy students with
fit expert Pati Palmer

 

 

 

 

This past weekend I was fortunate to be able to attend the four day Pant Fitting and Sewing Workshop with Pati Palmer at the Palmer/Pletsch International School of Sewing in Portland, Oregon.  It was an amazing experience.  The students, who hailed from all over the United States and Canada, brought a broad range of experience and backgrounds with them.  Learning to fit all the different body types was incredibly rewarding as each student was revealed in a beautifully fitting pair of pants!  Much spontaneous applause and appreciation was heard around the room as everyone proudly modeled the best fitting pair of slacks they'd ever owned - that they'd learned to fit and sew themselves.

For those of you who can't make it to Portland - good news!  Pacific Fabrics offers fit classes with Palmer/Pletsch Educational Associate  Nancy Seifert  (page 15 of the current catalog).  Her intensive  Pants for Real People - 2 Day Express Workshop is being offered in several locations during February and March.

So if you've been frustrated with trying to sew pants that truly fit and flatter - don't wait any longer!  You will be be amazed at the difference a properly fitted pant can make. 

--Katrina


A STUDENT AT A NANCY SEIFERT CLASS
WROTE IN HER BLOG www.pinkchalkstudio.com

Nancy drove to Bremerton Washington to do a class for just 3 people and got an amazing write-up in this blog (see below).  Then I wrote the blogger and told her I enjoyed what she wrote and told her about our new cookbook. Below is her response. This is virtual marketing at its best. I put the blog story below.

“Thanks for your lovely note Pati! I've already ordered your jacket book. I'm so impressed with all the techniques you've developed. I told Nancy it was truly a life changing experience for me. Like many women, I used to make a lot of clothes for myself as a 20 something. I could buy a pattern, make it exactly and it would fit perfectly. 2 kids later that was not the case any longer and I didn't understand why, I just thought I needed a bigger size. I'm having so much fun planning my new projects. It's so empowering!

Thanks for the link on the recipe book. I'm a big proponent of the family meal. My husband and I both cook a family dinner nightly. I ordered the book and look forward to reviewing that as well!”

Take care and have a fabulous week,

Kathy Mack
Pink Chalk Studio
PO Box 11551
Bainbridge Island, WA 98110
(206) 842-1671
e-mail:  kathy@pinkchalkstudio.com
website:  www.pinkchalkstudio.com
blog:  www.pinkchalkstudio.com/blog
fabric shop: 
www.pinkchalkfabrics.com

Enlightenment + The Full Bust Adjustment

I spent 8 hours on Saturday at the Pacific Fabrics in Bremerton learning the Palmer/Pletsch method of fitting, taught by the very talented Nancy Seifert. 2 other lovely ladies and I spent the day walking around in our bras learning how to fit commercial patterns to our unique shapes. Part 2 is another 8 hours next Saturday.

To say I had a light bulb moment would be an understatement. All the pattern failures I've experienced over the last 10 years! OMG. I never even had a chance without the Full Bust

Adjustment.

 

The class uses the book Fit for Real People and McCall's Learn to Fit Palmer/Pletsch pattern 2718. The instructor has bodices made up in each size and within the size there's one for each bust adjustment provided with the pattern. The student tries these on to determine their base pattern size.

 

 

 

All commercial patterns are a B cup. The class takes the student through fitting a basic bodice adjusting from the B cup to their cup size plus all the other funky things a 46 year old body has like high round back, forward shoulder, high shoulder (from carrying those babies around!), sagging breasts (they refer to this as lowering the bust darts), and, my favorite, more waist width.

A pattern adjustment technique exists for each type of alteration. I've made several attempts over the years to use these books and teach myself at home how to do the alteration. Looking back that was just plain crazy. A trained instructor can identify exactly the alterations you need and move straight to Go by teaching you how to do each one. I've always gotten bogged down in the past, feeling overwhelmed by all the different alterations possible and not being able to identify what I needed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But let's go back to that full bust adjustment. You can see on the tissue here that I added a full 1 3/4″ to the width of the bodice and deepened the bust darts accordingly. It fits perfectly!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What was I doing before:

1. I was buying size 14 or 16 patterns to match my bust measurement. My base pattern size should be a 12. The larger sized patterns created all kinds of baggy fitting issues and still didn't fit through the chest (because the patterns were still a B cup!)

2. I was trying to give my chest space by extending the side seam allowances. Again, All I ended up with was a baggy shirt and it still didn't fit my bust.

For next Saturday's class we bring in a commercial pattern that we'll tissue fit in class. I started practicing last night. Repeating the technique while it's fresh in my mind is the way I learn best. I'm so darned excited I can hardly stand it!

 

 

 

 

1/23/09: I was asked about finding a class in your area. I've updated the reference to Palmer/Pletsch above with a link to their website. They provide a list of certified instructors here. Many of these instructors will teach a class at local sewing shops or provide custom classes for groups. I first heard about them from other members in my American Sewing Guild group. Definitely contact the person in your area for more info.

pink chalk fabrics ~*~ new arrivals ~*~ free patterns ~*~ on sale

20 Responses to “Enlightenment + The Full Bust Adjustment” 

1.    on 19 Jan 2009 at 12:33 pm1Sarah Jackson

super super cool!! I would love to learn to do that. I rarely sew clothes for myself because of fit issues and I need to get over that.

2.    on 19 Jan 2009 at 12:40 pm2Christina

Good thing I didn't attempt to make the dress pattern I bought several months back, I don't think I could figure my way around adjusting it for DDD. It was never a problem before I had baby. Glad to know it's a standard B on patterns. I'll keep that in mind when looking at patterns now. Thanks!

3.    on 19 Jan 2009 at 1:08 pm3Meg

Kathy, this is fabulous information! Now that I am, ahem … no longer a B cup and hopefully looking forward to more pregnancies and many years of breastfeeding in the future, I'll have to look into this. Thanks!

4.    on 19 Jan 2009 at 1:24 pm4Kristin L

I love the concept to muslin bodices with various alterations so one can find just what they need. I have sort of the opposite problem as you have in that I'm an A cup and things tend to poof out on me. Also, when I take my measurements, I'm a pattern size 12, but when I make clothes from that, they are huge. When I make clothes with the 6 or 8 sized pattern, it's much closer — which means I hate trying to alter the patterns since the numbers on the package never match how the fabric actually fits me. It would be great to have a pro show me just what adjustments I'd need to make stuff fit my body. Question: if you figure out what adjustments you need based on, say McCall's patterns, then would you have to start from scratch again with New Look, or Burda, Simplicity, or even Butterick? (I've found I am not beholden to one brand — very fickle.)

5.    on 19 Jan 2009 at 1:25 pm5Jessica Robinson

I can't wait to see what you make - it is going to fit like a T.

Is this a traveling class? I'd love to take it. Can you give us more info about contacting the instructor or someone who might be able to give me more info?

6.    on 19 Jan 2009 at 1:49 pm6Kathy

Kristin: All the major companies use the same sloper. The Fit for Real People book has a great page where she makes the same simple design in the same size from 6 different pattern companies (Vogue, Butterick, McCalls, Simplicity, Style & Burda). The top fits the model in a similar way for all the companies (the same fitting issues show up for the model as well).

She talks about how there is the myth out there where people say ‘oh Vogue fits me better than McCall's etc. but it's just not true. They all use a very similar sloper as their base.

7.    on 19 Jan 2009 at 2:14 pm7jam

Although I used to make most of my clothes, now that my measurements are for the “mature” woman I don't even try. When I worked (pre-motherhood) I used to make “Very Easy Very Vogue” all the time. I'll look for the book, but I really need to look for that class in the Chicago area. Thanks for the heads up. I wish the quilt and craft patterns were universal. Figuring out the craft patterns is always a challenge for me.

8.    on 19 Jan 2009 at 2:51 pm8Jean Marie

Both Simplicity and McCall patterns have a few patterns which have different patterns for B, C, and D-cups. They won't have all the adjustments needed, but I find that it can help to have some of the work already done!

It's easier to locate the Simplicity ones on their website, under the Pattern Shop heading at the left navigating column, look under Special Collections for B, C, D cup Adjustment Collection and click to get a list/thumbnail of the patterns available. Some of the patterns are already in their out-of-print patterns, and those you have to look for by going through each top or dress listing - the adjustment is usually noted in the pattern description.

McCall's are the Made-For-You patterns - but there isn't any easy way to find them on the website. I've tried using the search function but as I get what seem to be random listings including everything from crafts to baby clothes, I'm either entering the wrong words or the search engine isn't given access to the field that has those words.

The one thing I do differently from the Palmer Pletsch method is that I trace the pattern pieces onto Swedish Tracing paper. It's sturdier than tissue paper, and I still have the original pattern pieces if I mess up the alterations. I'd love to take the class, I've just worked from the book (and from Fitting Finesse by Nancy Zieman), and some patterns I haven't been able to adjust to work for me (ex. one of the Simplicity blouse patterns with the cup adjustments just won't work for me) and I'd like to know why!

9.    on 19 Jan 2009 at 2:57 pm9Stephanie

This post is filled with all kinds of wonderful information for me. As a E/F I've obviously always had problems.

10.  on 19 Jan 2009 at 3:07 pm10Melanie

How exciting! I love those lightbulb moments. Looking forward to seeing what you do with your new techniques!

11.  on 19 Jan 2009 at 5:35 pm11Stephanie

That sounds like a really neat and useful class. I have a little bit of the opposite problem (Small Bust Adjustment). Usually I can get away with just using the pattern based on my high bust measurement and then expanding out at the waist. I'd love to take a class to learn how to do a proper SBA and figure out how much difference it makes.

P.S. I'm assuming they told you ahead of time that you'd be exposing your bra? I would be so embarrassed if I showed up in my “just running to Target” bra.

12.  on 19 Jan 2009 at 7:50 pm12Lisa

I also used to make many of my own clothes… back when I was in my 20s the patterns fit me fine. Now that I am almost 43 I have the same sagging, wider thing going on and they no longer fit as well! I also used to be a B-cup but post-baby have been left a size larger in that area as well.

13.  on 19 Jan 2009 at 8:20 pm13Sarah

Nancy's classes are always the first to sell out at Pac. Fabs. I've always wanted to take one. Next Fall I hope to get into the Pants fit class. I'm excited to see your finished blouse, be sure to have a photo shoot when it's completed.

THERE WERE MANY MORE COMMENTS, BUT I NEEDED TO CUT IT HERE. Go to the web site as she does a good job. Pati

FROM CONNIE HAMILTON, HARTWELL, GA

Recently I had an experience which might spark some ideas for other teachers and thought I'd share my thoughts.

When we moved to Georgia I joined the local quilt guild as a way to meet other fiber arts people.  I told them I was not a quilter but they said that was no problem, I was welcome to join and they hoped they could convert me.  I regularly went to their monthly meetings, sincerely admired their quilts and watched their demonstrations.  Everyone was quite friendly but after almost a year I still felt like an orphan in a big family.   At the last meeting everything changed!

That meeting was held on a chilly night and I decided to wear a jacket I'd made.  About eight years ago several friends and I had impulsively bought fat quarter packs of coordinated fabrics to make this quilted jacket using a sweatshirt as a base.  All of us were garment sewers and became very frustrated with cutting perfectly good pieces of fabric apart only to sew little pieces back together to create new yardage, then fitting it to the ripped apart sweatshirt pieces and finally quilting the whole thing.  We nicknamed our creations the "jackets from hell" and vowed we'd never do another.

At the quilting guild meeting the time for 'show and tell' arrived and I bravely stood up to show my one and only piece of quilted work.  Everyone oohed and aahed and asked what batting I'd used, how I constructed it, how I did the pockets, etc. etc.  After the meeting several ladies came up to talk and look at the jacket detail.  They were especially interested in the pockets which are like the Sporty Designer Side Seam Pockets in the Pant book and asked if I'd give a lesson to the group on how to make them.  Who could  have guessed that my jacket from hell would be the key to my acceptance as a "real" seamstress and teaching a class as well!

The moral of my story is, "When in Rome, do as Rome does."  Over the years I've tried many times to think of classes which would interest the abundance of quilting groups but most think fashion sewers just don't have much to offer.  All I had to do was _wear_ something _quilted_ and I had them hooked!  There are many quilters who would love to sew garments but they can't get the fit right and give up in despair.  We just have to figure out a way to gain their respect and interest.  If it takes making and wearing a jacket from hell, I'll be glad to do it.

 

FROM ROSANNA BENBOW, WASILLA, AK

Happy New Year to you both and your families, this year has been so very exciting for me with attending your school in Portland and then really beginning to live my dream of teaching sewing and I know the new year will bring even more of the same.

Well here's the best ASC Sew News from the far north, besides getting my Learn to Sew classes up a running I've decided to open the Alaskan Style Creations (ASC) Sewing Lounge similar to what Seam's Diva's is doing , which will be open for those who want to sew with some help on their sewing projects. It's not going to be a structured class type of setting, nor will they need to attend weekly, just whenever needing some help, hopefully it will be fun and educational for all and I can share some of my Palmer/Pletsch training.

I'm most excited about my new web page which is finally up and running so please check it out, it is still under construction as they call it, therefore, there will be some changes and additions to the page soon. Take a look  at it the address is www.ascschoolofsewing.com and my brochure that I hired someone to do for me. Please take a look and let me know what you think.

Rosanna (Roxann) Benbow, CSI
Palmer/Pletch Certified Sewing Instructor
ASC School of Sewing
(907)  373-5651 or 841-2759 cell
www.ascschoolofsewing.com

FROM FERN MACDONALD, VICTORIA, BC

I have just finished the dress and pants from 5716 and I now have a new favorite for  pants.  I am offering a 2 day workshop on this pant in Feb.  I think it is a real winner. What I esp. like is the waist treatment the way the band fits it is sooooo flattering.  I have a full tummy and a flat seat (Yeah like 90 % of the over 40s have) I eliminated all darts.  I did narrow the legs slightly as I am height challenged and I shortened the crotch length.  I did the flat seat adjustment as I do on all my pants.  The first pair is a wool and lycra blend with good recovery.  Perfect!  The second pair is wool suiting, Perfect.  The third pair is wool crepe Perfect.  I did not line the stretch wool but both other pairs I did.  I am tickled with them all.  It is quicker to make a pair of pants than to try and find a good quality pair in ready-made no matter what the price.  My dress is made from red crepe viscose.  I did my usual adjustments and it too is just what I wanted.  Keep the great patterns coming.  I teach a lot and recommend your patterns.  I will see you this summer.  I should send you some pictures of the garments I have made.  I always wear a Palmer Pletsch garment to teach my seminars at the sewing show.  It's good to have patterns that you can recommend without reservation.  Thanks again

Cheers, Fern MacDonald, Victoria, BC

FROM JANET MALWITZ, MUSE, PA

I don't know if you're familiar with Joy Mangano -- she's on Home Shopping Network a lot with some great products.  You may have heard about huggable hangers, which is one of her products.  Anyway, a couple weeks ago I tuned in to HSN & she was selling a 3-way mirror that can be hung on the wall or over the door.  I got it for about $120 with shipping.  It's just fantastic.  It's a very good quality.  I have it on my door in my sewing room and used it this week to fit a pattern.  Sure beats doing contortions trying to hold the pattern in place & using a hand-held mirror to view the back.   They periodically run specials on her products.  Just thought I'd let you know.  You can see it if you go to www.hsn.com and searh on Joy Mangano.

FROM RACHEL ARIAS,  INDIANAPOLIS, IN

I've changed my e-mail address from Rachel.arias@sbcglobal.net to sewfie@comcast.net.  I have been teaching Beginning Sewing continuously and still enjoy it very much.  I still work full time, however I'm holding my classes on Saturday, which works out just fine.

Take care.
Rachel Arias

 

FROM KARLIE LABATIQUE, TORRINGTON, CT

I just developed a web site (I'm so excited) and was wondering if it's possible to put it with my name is listed in the teacher's section?  Let me know if you like it.  Do I get points for this? 

Also, I hope it's okay that I used the picture of the patterns?

The website is www.sewshouldyou.com.

Thank you,
Karlie

 

FROM CINDY CHAMBERS, CALGARY,AB

 I have held my first couple pants classes, and everyone seems to be pleased.  I have one student, however, that we just couldn't get to fit correctly, and I told her that I would send photos and see if you could assist.  We were using M5239, view A, although we moved the zipper to a front fly instead of in the back(no pockets).  Sally has a very flat derriere, so we took out the full amount marked on the tissue for the flat back adjustment.  I shifted the inseam on the back to have a wider seam allowance.  There was still too much bagginess under the curve of the derriere and at the upper back thigh, so I took out a “dart” (much like a shaped dart for the fitting of a bodice) and “smooshed” the ends to flatten the pattern.  We lowered the crotch seam lower than the lowest stitching line.    In the end, the fit wasn't bad – better than she was getting in ready to wear – but still too much fabric through the back thigh for what she wanted.  Perhaps we should have been using a jeans pattern, although I didn't get the sense that she wanted a snug jean look.  I'm enclosing a photo of the back to see if you have any thoughts about what else I should have done to try to eliminate the bagginess.

As an aside, did you know that the patterns we're getting here in Canada don't have the fitting instructions in the guide sheet?  I picked up some patterns last night for an upcoming class, and there are only 5 pages of instructions, rather than 8, and what is missing is all of the how to tissue fit instructions.  Don't know if it is the difference between patterns here vs. in the US, or whether McCalls has changed their printing on all of the patterns. 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Cindy



PATI'S ANSWER

Hi, Good job. Here are a couple of thoughts. Thanks for sending the photos as they allowed me to make an instant evaluation.

She is probably much lower in the back than in the front. If you want to be daring, chalk a lower crotch line up to 1 1/2" lower, stitch and trim. Then lower waistband by that amount at the top of the center back. Another thought, see the lines pointing to her sides. If you first tried pulling the sides down, the lines might go away. She is higher on the right hip. So pull that side down more. When she has the tissue on, see if the crotch line is parallel to the floor. If not, pull the side down or the center back up until it is.

I have a feeling it is a combo of both needs. Pati

 

FROM CINDY CHAMBERS, CALGARY, AB

Me again with more questions about pant fitting.  A student in my current class has a very short crotch depth and very round tummy.  I recall you saying how many there were in our class last summer, but apparently I didn't pay enough attention to how to fit them (the woman from California that comes every year has a similar shape, and I'm trying to remember what you did for her, but can't).

In this case, we eliminated the front darts and shortened the crotch depth both front and back on the shorten line…which resulted in cutting through the fly extension.  The zipper is now about 3 ½” long.  Because we're using M5239, View B (pockets) the pocket opening became too small to get her hand in.  We changed the angle of the pocket opening and lengthened it a bit.  That of course means we needed to adjust the pocket facing and side front as well.  I recall you telling us that there was a mistake on the pattern, having to do with the pocket facing, and I'm not sure if that is contributing to the current problem or not.  I can't figure out how to alter the pocket facing and have it fit the front properly.   Because there is now no dart in the front, the facing no longer fits properly along the waistline, and the waistlines don't match up (the facing is angled, whereas the pant waist is more straight  - ie. perpendicular to the grain).  Even when I look at a brand new pattern, the facing and pant front don't match at the waistline, so I'm not able to figure out how to alter the facing.  The photo I'm enclosing shows the facing stitched to the pocket opening, with the facing waist quite far above the pant waist.  If we attach the waists together, we get puckers in the facing.  If we let it lay smooth and trim the waist of the facing, then the facing is off grain.

In order to have this student progress and get her zipper in, I ended up having her stitch the pocket to the facing to create the pocket bag, and then just  remove the facing completely.  This is more like M3740 in terms of how the pocket is finished, and I hope it will work out OK.  In retrospect, I should have insisted that she be fit in back zip pants with no pockets or welt pockets so that we could get her pattern fitted properly.  However, she is quite arthritic and can't easily fasten back zip pants.   

Can you suggest how I might have approached this student's fitting challenges more effectively (ie. need for front zip, very short crotch depth, very round tummy)?  And can you clarify why the facing on View B of M4239 goes all the way across the front to the zipper?  I know that it helps pleats lay flat, but in a non-pleated version, I'm wondering if it is necessary?

Thanks as always for your assistance.

Cindy

PATI'S ANSWER

Pant #5239.  The pattern problem was a mistake in drafting and the bottom edges of the pocket bags didn't match. When pinning the pieces together for tissue-fitting, you can trim your lining and pocket lower edges to match.

The key is getting everything right in tissue fitting first. Every change you make on the front should be made on tissue pieces that get sewed to it. It is easier to check yourself first in tissue. So, if the pocket is too short, you can change the pocket, the facing, and lining angles to match the front if you made the front pocket longer.

When you match the top edges of the lining and pant, there will be "play" in the pocket for give when you sit. If you don't want it, trim all edges even while lining is flat.

If you leave out darts in View A, you will need to add the width of the dart to the CF of the lining.

You could prevent the zipper and pocket opening from being so short by shortening the front both in the zipper area and just below the zipper/pocket area, being careful not to get into the crotch curve. However, some people are ok with a short opening if their waste is as large as their hips.

FROM ROSANNA BENBOW, WASILLA, AK
After spending the 6 weeks in Portland at school last summer my business is off to a good start as I have 6 full time students and 4 part timers so far, although not enough to live on but it's a good start. The University of Alaska classes have not been to successful yet, only gotten 2 students so far, so we will see what happens with the spring sign-up. I will send you the link to my web page as soon as it's up as I hired a marketing person to help me get more visibility for my business.

Best Regards and Happy Sewing,
Rosanna (Roxann) Benbow, CSI
Palmer/Pletch Certified Sewing Instructor
Alaskan Style Creations and School of Sewing
(907)  373-5651 or 841-2759 cell
 

FROM CONNIE HAMILTON, HARTWELL, GA

What a year of frantic activity and change!  Our house in Indiana finally sold in April and we had 13 days to pack up 35 years' accumulation of 'stuff' and move all 10 tons of it to our newly constructed garage in Georgia.  We're now gutting and renovating the house.  My temporary sewing room is in the unfinished upstairs room of the new garage, which doesn't sound too inviting but is my wonderful private getaway for right now.  It is clean, quiet, and equipped with my cutting table, sewing machines, ironing board, CD player, and a lock on the door.

Although I'm scrambling to finish up my required CEUs for this year I won't have any trouble at all from here on out.  In this small town rural area I have used this year to ferret out any opportunities for promoting or teaching sewing and have made lots of progress - some of which won't bear fruit until 2009.  I joined an informal group of ladies who meet once a week to knit/crochet/handsew and found one who wanted help with her serger and another who wants to tissue fit a blouse.  Another lady in the group holds a two week craft camp in the summer and
I did a Winky Cherry stuffed animal class for that.  (The kids LOVED it.  It was one of the most popular activities in the whole camp.) I've made contact with the 4-H program here but don't think anything will materialize with that in the near future so am going to talk with the Girl Scout program soon.  The closest ASG Chapter is in Atlanta but the closest neighborhood group is 2 hours away and the one I'd probably be most interested in is 3 hours away.   This has lead me to explore the possibility of forming a neighborhood group here in Hartwell.  I'm running across more and more women who have sewn garments in the past or who are interested in sewing but have no support group.  The owner of a local craft shop says she will help me publicize and promote an ASG group here and I'm about ready to make contact with Atlanta's ASG  Neighborhood Group Coordinator to discuss possibilities.

One of my most productive contacts has come from my name being on the teacher list on the P/P website.  A lady in Anderson, South Carolina (just across the lake from us) called about helping her fit pants on herself and also helping her learn tissue fitting so she could use it with her teenage sewing students.  I, of course, was thrilled to be of assistance and Tina and I have developed a fun friendship as well as a steady working relationship.  As it turns out, she is also a homeschool mom and most of her sewing students are also in the homeschool cooperative which they belong to.  She brought up a very interesting possibility that might be of interest to other teachers.  The sewing students' moms are hoping the state will allow the girls to count their sewing classes as Home Ec. credits toward their educational requirements.  Tina asked if I would be interested in doing some more 'formal' type classes for the girls, such as something on the history of sewing, the development of patternmaking, fabric types, etc.  She suggested that perhaps I could use the P/P Fit book as a 'textbook' and the girls could buy them as part of their curriculum.  I think this is a fantastic idea and my Palmer/Pletsch certification will lend credibility to this endeavor.  I can already think of other possibilities for a class of this type.  Although most of the fabric mills have closed or gone out-of-country there are still a few around here and maybe we could arrange a tour.  Perhaps the girls could help design and sew costumes for one of the several community theater organizations in the area.  There are local people who raise sheep and spin and dye yarn from the wool and another lady who does beautiful custom loomweavings - all very intriguing fiber arts.   For any teachers in less populated areas or where there are limited teaching opportunities, the home school sector might be a promising avenue to check out.  Hope I can get to Portland sometime soon for refresher classes and a recharge.  Connie Hamilton, Hartwell, GA (Formerly from Indianapolis)


FROM GAYLE DUDLY, COLORADO SPRINGS, CO

Pati, here's a picture of my students last semester. These were my advanced students and they all choose to make dresses from Melissa's DIY Style pattern line. They found the instructions easy to follow and really liked the result. Please share these with Melissa.

Gayle Dudley
Steamboat Springs High School
Career/College Counselor
Creative Expressions Instructor
45 E. Maple St, Steamboat, CO 80487
970-871-3641  Fax 970-879-7226
gdudley@sssd.k12.co.us

 

 

 

 

 
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