One of our workshop students said to me, “Please do a raglan sleeve jacket as I want to learn how to fit that style.” So, students’ wishes reign supreme. When we wrote Fit for Real People, there were absolutely NO raglan style patterns to play with, so we used common sense and wrote away. When McCall’s sent me the tracing for this pattern, I had a chance to try all the common alterations by making it up for me. I learned a lot and will share with you in this guidesheet, written this time from experience, not conjecture!
Sizes: B5 (8 to 16) F5 16-24

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95

Because this jacket has many seams, it is the most flattering you could wear. You can nip in or let out the seams to fit your shape and it will be very subtle. (Learn more about this jacket and Pati's variations...)

These semi-fitted, lined jackets have collar variations, shoulder pads, side front and side back seams, and two-piece sleeves. A: single-layered collar (wrong side may show) with bias binding. A,B: collar band. C: flaps, welts and pockets. D: purchased trim.

Sizes B5 (8-16) and F5 (16-24)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95

\

The fitted (men) shirts have collar, collar/front bands, self-lined yoke, forward shoulder seams, and narrow hem. A: stitched hem on sleeves. B: flaps, pleated pockets, opening for pen/pencil. C: bias front band/pockets, snap closings. B, C, D: long, two-piece sleeves with pleats, button cuffs (seam opening). B, C: rolled sleeves (wrong side shows). Collar, collar band, yoke, tabs B, C, cuffs B, C, D: cut on crosswise grain of fabric

Sizes XM (SM - MED - LRG) and XN (XLG - XXL - XXXL)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95

Close-fitting, pullover tops have neckline variations, below elbow or long sleeves and narrow hems. Fitted, straight-legged or slightly flared pants have elastic waist and no side seams.

Sizes A5 (6-14) and E5 (14-22)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95

These semi-fitted wrap tops have front extending into standing back collar, front pleats, inside ties, gathered, attached ties (wrong side shows) and narrow hem. Views A and C  use a purchased buckle. In View D the sleeves are gathered into bands.

Sizes A5 (6-14) and
E5 (14-22)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95

Wrap tops are very feminine and great to wear, especially when they fit correctly. The lighter-weight knits are very forgiving in wrap style tops, so unless you have large adjustments to make, you could bypass smaller ones you usually make, except for broad back, forward shoulder, and high and low round back. If you are a C bra cup size, even though patterns are made for a B, you can get away without altering for a full bust. However, if you are very full busted, you will get a better fit by altering. See tips in the guidesheet.

Views A/B have gathers across the tummy which will camouflage if you have "fluff" there. Views C/D have gathers on one side and from the neck creating diagonal gathers over the front, which are very feminine. The wrap is high enough that you won’t have to worry about too much cleavage showing or the front gapping when you bend over.

Don’t waste time sewing a garment that doesn’t fit! Tissue-fit the pattern before you cut. To make altering easier, we have placed alteration lines on the pattern tissue for the most common adjustments. Tuck or cut and spread at these lines until the pattern fits you.

KNITS AND FIT

A note about knits. Most of the time, you don't want the knit to STREEEEEETCH to fit you and show every little lump and bump on your body. However, for this top, you will want some stretch because of the waist gathers.  f in doubt about how tight you want your knit to fit, then tissue-fit as if it were a woven. You can always take in the side seams to make the top tighter. That is why we also tell you when to pin-fit your fabric. The pattern is drafted pretty much to body measurements with little or no ease added. If your measurements are the same as your pattern, it should fit in lightweight knits. If the knit is heavier and firm, you will want more ease.  Sizes A5 (6-14) and E5 (14-22)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95

Dress with Lined Bodice
This is a figure-flattering dress with a lined bodice, front darts and side back seams, and darted skirt. All the sleeve variations are interchangeable. The high waist curves up in the front creating a flattering angle. The center front panel adds vertical lines. If you have a full waist or thighs, choose the A-line skirt. The tissue has alteration lines to help you achieve a perfect fit. Glance through the guide before you begin!

Available in sizes B5 (8-16)
and P5 (16-24)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95

Princess Seam Jacket with Zip Front.
This is a simple to sew jacket with princess seams, zip front and optional sleeve hem details such as a slit, an invisible zipper, roll-up sleeves, or plain hem. Learn to easily alter using alteration lines printed on the tissue and fit tips in the guide. Think outside the box. Eliminate the zipper for a super easy cardigan. Make it longer or shorter in length. Make it in a stretch-woven or  a double-knit. Use a solid color, a print, or a jacquard for evening. Try it in faux fur. Make the zipper a contrast or matching.

Skinny Pant with Contour Waistline.
A skinny pant with a contour waistline and an optional pocket below the front band. Loosen up the fit if you plan to use it for your cell phone! The hem has design options: plain, invisible side zipper, slits, or self cuffs. Because there is a seam over your derriere, we have suggested that is where to take the pattern in to fit your shape, even if you are flat in the back. Follow the tissue-fitting and fabric-fitting instructions in the guidesheet. 

Stretch fabrics will give you more bending power in this fitted pant. If you use wool gabardine or other non-stretch fabric, try bending and sitting with the side seams pinned. If uncomfortable, let out the 1” side seam allowances from upper hip to the thighs until you can easily sit.

The Day-to-Evening Top for Knits,
Wovens, or Stretch-Wovens.

I love this feminine top with neckline and sleeve options. Soft tucks replace darts at the bustline, neckline, and waist. It is pretty fitted with just 2” bust ease, which makes it perfect when cut on the bias or from a knit. If you use a stretch woven or knit, cut so the most stretch is horizontal, going around your body. When fitting, decide if you need the side zipper opening. Pin or baste the side seams and if you can get it on over your head, you can eliminate the zipper and make it easier to sew.

Available in sizes B5 (8-16) and FF (16-22)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95

These fitted pants, shorts, and skirt have self-faced contoured waistbands with hook and eye closures. The top of the waistband falls at the waistline.

These semi-fitted tops and dresses have optional front and back vertical darts, self-neck binding and optional invisible side seam zipper. Views A and B have self armhole binding.

These lined jackets have side panels, front darts, lapels, and an optional tie that can tie in the back or front. It has a 2-piece sleeve, and optional welt inseam pocket. Alteration lines are printed on the tissue.

Available in sizes B5 (8-16) and RR (18W-24W)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95

High or Low Cowl Neckline Top or Dress

This soft drapey top or dress has a high or low cowl neckline with soft gathers around the waist at sides and center back to camouflage any extra fluff you may have. The pattern is for knits. It is lined to the edge with a soft tricot. The back zipper is optional. If you are full busted, you will probably need it to get the top on and off. I show you how to fit the tissue and the fabric with lots of tips for knits included.
Sizes  BB (8-14), FF (16-22)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95    

Misses' Lined Vest and Jacket, Belt and Pants

This vest and jacket pattern has an easy shawl collar. The jacket has a drop shoulder. The backs on both have a peplum and an inverted pleat with topstitching. We didn't bring the peplum to the front, since, if you have a tummy, the seam can be difficult to fit in the front. Most of us have a curve at the waistline in the back and the peplum seam works well with that.

The pants have straight legs, front and back darts, back invisible zipper and ribbon waist finishing. The top of the pants falls ¹/2" below the waist.

Sizes  BB (8-14), FF (16-22)

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95        

The New 8-Hour Blazer by Pati Palmer

A little history: What do John Molloy, Family Circle Magazine, 1980, and Pati Palmer have in Common?

By total coincidence, in 1980 Family Circle approached Pati to write an article on sewing blazer jackets for women. At the same time, she was designing the innovative 8-hour Blazer, her first pattern  for McCall’s. John Molloy's book Dress for Success was catching on. He told women that if they wanted to get ahead in the corporate world, they needed to dress like men. Timing is everything. There were no blazers for women at retail, so women sewed them. Pati's pattern sold more copies than any pattern in history that year--one million copies.

On this 30-year anniversary of Pati Palmer designing for McCall's, she has developed the latest edition of her 8-hour blazer pattern, even more innovative than the first, focusing on the latest technology in shaping fabrics and in fitting today's female figure. The many seams allow for great fitting opportunities. There are alteration lines on the tissue. The guide is very complete and full of tips including no-fail double-welt pockets. The lined jacket is in a waist length, medium length, and a longer "boyfriend" jacket length. Be sure to use our PerfectFuse interfacings for great results.

Sizes  BB (8-14), FF (16-22)     

Reg. price is $19.95       
Our price is $10.95