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McCall’s M7818 Unisex Blazer Jacket
Melissa’s First Unisex “8-Hour Blazer” Palmer/Pletsch Revival
For the past 4 years in addition to sewing and teaching fit I’ve been fitting men and women for custom, made to measure suits, blazers, and overcoats. I guess the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree! My mom’s first 8-hour blazer pattern was on the shelves in 1980, and has been a Palmer/Pletsch fitting staple ever since.
This modern and updated unisex blazer pattern is complete with full tissue fitting instructions and alteration lines printed on the pattern for making adjustments. They apply to men and women. This is a teaching pattern as well. You can use it to teach a tailoring classes or just to teach yourself tailoring methods and fit! The guidesheet reflects what we feel are best for professional but time-effective jacket techniques.
McCall’s used men’s unisex sizing on this pattern. That means that even the small may look like a “boyfriend jacket.” If you want it more fitted, a size 14 would use the small and a 16-18 would want to use the medium.
Even though classic tailoring methods use horsehair canvas for the interfacing, we always suggest (especially for women) to use the amazing PerfectFuse weft fusibles from Palmer/Pletsch. Horsehair canvas can be very stiff and when dealing in darts and fitting the bust, that stiffness is not ideal for a female figure.
Choose a no-fail fabric—natural fibers are best or a blend of natural and synthetic. Stretch wools are popular for womenswear currently. Linen, silk and wool suiting blends are a great for adding some texture to your fabric.
Be sure to tissue fit BEFORE you cut your fabric! Then fit as you sew to tweak the fit in the fabric. Try on the jacket many times to catch issues before you go too far where it may become more difficult to fix.
XM (SM- MED- LRG), XN (XLG-XXL-XXXL)